Table of Contents
- Ano Poli Thessaloniki at a Glance
- Why Visit Ano Poli?
- A Brief History of Ano Poli
- 1. Trigonion Tower and the Best View of Thessaloniki
- 2. Walk Along the Byzantine Walls
- 3. Explore Heptapyrgion, Thessaloniki’s Hilltop Fortress
- 4. Visit Vlatadon Monastery
- 5. Discover the Church of Hosios David
- 6. See Agios Nikolaos Orfanos
- 7. Visit the Byzantine Bath
- 8. Wander Through Tsinari
- 9. Admire the Traditional Houses
- 10. Visit Pasha’s Gardens
- Where to Eat in Ano Poli
- What to Eat in Ano Poli
- Best Cafés and Sunset Drinks
- How to Get to Ano Poli Thessaloniki
- The Best Way to Explore Ano Poli
- A Half-Day Ano Poli Walking Route
- Ano Poli in Two Hours
- Best Time to Visit Ano Poli
- Is Ano Poli Safe?
- Is Ano Poli Suitable for Children?
- Is Ano Poli Accessible?
- Should You Stay in Ano Poli?
- Practical Tips for Visiting Ano Poli
- Final Thoughts on Visiting Ano Poli
Ano Poli is the side of Thessaloniki that surprises many first-time visitors.
Above the dense modern centre, the city changes into a quieter neighbourhood of stone-paved lanes, traditional houses, small squares, Byzantine churches and sections of the old defensive walls. From its highest viewpoints, Thessaloniki stretches below towards the Thermaic Gulf.
The name Ano Poli means “Upper Town.” It is one of the most atmospheric neighbourhoods in Thessaloniki and one of the best places to understand how the city looked before much of its historic centre was transformed during the twentieth century.
A visit can include panoramic views from the walls, the Trigonion Tower, the Heptapyrgion fortress, Vlatadon Monastery, hidden churches, old houses and a relaxed meal in Tsinari.
This Ano Poli Thessaloniki guide explains what to see, where to eat, how to get there and how to follow a practical downhill walking route without exhausting yourself on the steep climb.
Ano Poli Thessaloniki at a Glance
Ano Poli is best known for:
- Traditional houses and cobbled lanes
- The Byzantine walls
- Panoramic views over Thessaloniki
- Trigonion Tower
- Heptapyrgion, also known as Yedi Kule
- Vlatadon Monastery
- The Church of Hosios David
- Agios Nikolaos Orfanos
- The Byzantine Bath
- Tsinari’s tavernas and neighbourhood atmosphere
The official Thessaloniki tourism guide describes Ano Poli as the city’s most cohesive historic neighbourhood, combining stone-paved streets, traditional houses, Byzantine monuments and elevated views across the Thermaic Gulf.
For the most comfortable visit, travel uphill by bus or taxi and walk back down towards the centre.
Why Visit Ano Poli?
Ano Poli offers a very different experience from Thessaloniki’s waterfront and commercial centre.
Much of the lower city consists of twentieth-century apartment buildings laid out around busy streets. Ano Poli preserves narrower lanes, irregular street patterns, small neighbourhood squares and older houses with enclosed balconies, projecting upper floors and tiled roofs.
The neighbourhood is also one of the best places to explore Thessaloniki’s Byzantine heritage. Historic churches, monasteries, baths and sections of the walls are integrated into an area where people still live.
Ano Poli is not an open-air museum. Laundry hangs from balconies, residents park along narrow streets, cats sleep beside garden walls and small cafés serve the surrounding community.
The mixture of living neighbourhood and historic setting gives Ano Poli its appeal. It feels less like a collection of major attractions and more like a surviving layer of Thessaloniki that visitors must discover slowly.
A Brief History of Ano Poli
Ano Poli occupies the elevated northern section of historic Thessaloniki.
Its position close to the acropolis and defensive walls made it strategically important for centuries. The neighbourhood contains monuments from Byzantine and Ottoman Thessaloniki, while parts of its street plan developed long before the modern city expanded beyond its walls.
Unlike much of central Thessaloniki, Ano Poli was not destroyed during the Great Fire of 1917. As a result, it retained a larger concentration of traditional houses and older streets than the rebuilt lower centre.
The neighbourhood’s surviving architecture reflects several periods. Byzantine churches stand close to Ottoman-era houses, later refugee homes and modern residential buildings.
This historical continuity is visible everywhere, but Ano Poli should not be imagined as completely unchanged. Houses have been rebuilt, streets altered and properties restored or replaced over time.
Its importance lies in the overall character that survives: a hillside district closely connected with Thessaloniki’s fortifications, religious monuments and pre-fire urban history.
1. Trigonion Tower and the Best View of Thessaloniki
The viewpoint beside Trigonion Tower is one of the best places to begin exploring Ano Poli.
The tower formed part of Thessaloniki’s fortifications near the northeastern walls. From the surrounding area, visitors can see across the city towards the Thermaic Gulf, the port and the eastern districts.
On clear days, the mountains across the gulf may be visible, including the outline of Mount Olympus. The official city guide recommends timing the visit for sunset, when the city lights gradually appear below the walls.
You do not necessarily need to enter the tower to enjoy the panorama. Much of the classic view is available from the open area beside the walls.
The location is especially popular during late afternoon and sunset. Arrive earlier when you want a quieter visit or unobstructed photographs.
Best for: Panoramic views, sunset and first-time visitors.
2. Walk Along the Byzantine Walls
The surviving walls define much of Ano Poli’s historic character.
Thessaloniki was once enclosed by a defensive system of walls, gates and towers protecting the city from both land and sea. Large sections of the lower and waterfront fortifications were removed during the nineteenth century, but important stretches remain around Upper Town.
Walking beside the walls reveals their scale more effectively than seeing isolated sections in the centre. Their elevated position also offers changing views through towers, openings and nearby streets.
The walls are included within Thessaloniki’s UNESCO-listed group of Paleochristian and Byzantine monuments.
Some sections can be followed easily from public roads, while others are inaccessible, closed or separated by private property. Do not climb onto unprotected masonry or enter restricted areas.
The most rewarding section for a short visit lies around Trigonion Tower, Heptapyrgion and Vlatadon Monastery.
3. Explore Heptapyrgion, Thessaloniki’s Hilltop Fortress
Heptapyrgion stands at the highest part of Ano Poli.
The fortress is also known as Eptapyrgio or Yedi Kule, names meaning “Seven Towers.” Despite the name, the complex contains more than seven towers.
Its history extends across Byzantine and Ottoman periods. It formed part of the city’s acropolis and later became a prison, remaining associated with harsh conditions, political prisoners and Greek rebetiko songs until the prison closed in 1989.
The large stone complex feels dramatically different from the open waterfront monuments below. Walls, towers, gates and prison buildings reveal the site’s changing functions over several centuries.
Access arrangements may vary because archaeological and conservation work can affect which sections are open. Check current information before planning an interior visit.
Even when access is restricted, the fortress exterior and surrounding walls remain worth seeing.
Best for: Byzantine history, prison history and architecture.
4. Visit Vlatadon Monastery
Vlatadon Monastery is one of Ano Poli’s most important religious sites.
Located close to the walls, it was founded during the fourteenth century by the brothers Dorotheos and Markos Vlatis. The surviving katholikon contains wall paintings dating from the late Byzantine period.
The monastery remains active and is connected directly with the Ecumenical Patriarchate. Visitors should therefore treat it as a place of worship rather than only a sightseeing stop.
Its elevated grounds provide broad views across Thessaloniki and the gulf. The location was historically valuable because it allowed observation over the wider city and sea.
Dress respectfully. The official visitor information specifies that shorts and sleeveless clothing are not permitted, and admission is free. Published opening hours can change around services and religious events, so confirm before visiting.
Best for: Byzantine art, religious history and city views.
5. Discover the Church of Hosios David
The small Church of Hosios David is one of Ano Poli’s most rewarding hidden monuments.
It belonged to the former Latomos Monastery and is particularly important for its Early Christian mosaic and surviving wall paintings.
The building is modest from the outside and easy to overlook among the residential streets. Its intimate scale contrasts with larger Thessaloniki churches such as Agios Dimitrios and Agia Sofia.
Hosios David demonstrates why Ano Poli rewards visitors who move slowly. Some of its most important sights are not positioned along large avenues or surrounded by obvious tourist infrastructure.
The official suggested route through Ano Poli connects Vlatadon Monastery with Hosios David before descending towards Taxiarchis and the Byzantine Bath.
Opening times can be limited, and access may be affected by services. Even when the interior is closed, the walk through the surrounding streets remains worthwhile.
6. See Agios Nikolaos Orfanos
Agios Nikolaos Orfanos is another outstanding Byzantine church hidden within Ano Poli.
The church is particularly known for its extensive fourteenth-century frescoes, which present scenes from the life of Christ, saints and religious narratives.
Its quiet courtyard and garden create one of the most peaceful monument settings in Thessaloniki. The city’s official tourism guide highlights both the church’s Paleologan frescoes and its surrounding garden.
Agios Nikolaos Orfanos is slightly removed from the most direct Trigonion-to-centre route. Include it when you have at least half a day or a strong interest in Byzantine art.
As with other active churches, opening arrangements may differ from standard museum hours. Dress modestly and avoid interrupting services.
Best for: Byzantine frescoes, quiet gardens and travellers interested in religious art.
7. Visit the Byzantine Bath
The Byzantine Bath of Ano Poli is one of the neighbourhood’s less obvious but historically important monuments.
The structure dates from the Byzantine period and continued to serve the surrounding population for centuries. Its survival is particularly valuable because relatively few secular Byzantine bath buildings remain.
The bath is situated above Olympiados Street, near the lower boundary of Ano Poli. This makes it a useful final historical stop when walking downhill from Vlatadon Monastery and Hosios David.
The official Ano Poli route recommends reaching the bath by descending Theotokopoulou Street past the Church of Taxiarchis.
Interior access can be limited, so view it as part of the wider neighbourhood route rather than the only reason for visiting.
8. Wander Through Tsinari
Tsinari is one of the most charming sections of Ano Poli.
Its name is connected with the Turkish word for plane tree, reflecting the older Ottoman character of the area. Small streets meet around a neighbourhood square with traditional buildings and tavernas.
The area feels more like a small village than part of a major city. It is a good place to slow down after visiting the walls and churches.
Official tourism guidance describes Tsinari as a peaceful area of cobbled streets and tavernas, well suited to a rest during an Ano Poli visit.
Do not expect a large restaurant district. Its appeal comes from the compact, residential setting and the opportunity to eat away from Thessaloniki’s busiest tourist areas.
Best for: Traditional lunch, local atmosphere and relaxed evening meals.
9. Admire the Traditional Houses
Ano Poli’s houses are attractions in their own right.
Look for colourful façades, projecting upper floors, enclosed wooden balconies, tiled roofs, internal courtyards and irregular plots following the slope of the hill.
Some buildings preserve characteristics associated with Ottoman-era domestic architecture. Others are later reconstructions or modern homes designed to fit the neighbourhood’s protected character.
The most appealing streets are not necessarily those leading directly between monuments. Leave the main route occasionally and follow smaller lanes, provided they remain public and accessible.
Remember that these are private homes. Avoid photographing residents closely, looking into courtyards or treating doorways as staged photo sets.
The strongest photographs usually capture the relationship between architecture, sloping streets and everyday neighbourhood life.
10. Visit Pasha’s Gardens
Pasha’s Gardens lie just outside the eastern walls near Agios Pavlos.
The small park contains unusual stone structures whose origins and intended function remain uncertain. Their organic shapes, arches and grotto-like forms are unlike other monuments in Thessaloniki.
The gardens offer shaded paths, benches and views towards the city. They can be included after Trigonion Tower or visited as part of OASTH’s cultural bus route, which stops close to the gardens and eastern walls.
Pasha’s Gardens are not essential for a short two-hour visit, but they add variety to a longer Ano Poli walk.
Best for: Unusual architecture, shade and a quieter stop.
Where to Eat in Ano Poli
Ano Poli is best for traditional tavernas, grilled food, meze and relaxed neighbourhood meals rather than contemporary fine dining.
The strongest dining areas are:
Tsinari
Choose Tsinari for old neighbourhood atmosphere, outdoor tables and traditional dishes. It is one of the most natural lunch stops during a walking route.
Around the Walls and Eptapyrgio
The streets near the walls contain tavernas and cafés with elevated views. These can work well around sunset, although view-focused establishments may be busier at weekends.
Kastra and the Lower Slopes
The broader area commonly described as Kastra offers small restaurants, grills and local cafés between Ano Poli and the centre.
Around Agios Pavlos
This is useful when combining Ano Poli with Pasha’s Gardens or the eastern walls.
Because restaurant ownership, menus and opening days change, choose a busy establishment with recent reviews rather than relying only on an old “best restaurant” list.
What to Eat in Ano Poli
A meal in Ano Poli is well suited to shared dishes.
Look for:
- Grilled meat and souvlaki
- Soutzoukakia
- Seasonal salads
- Feta and local cheeses
- Fried courgettes or aubergines
- Stuffed vine leaves
- Beans and slow-cooked dishes
- Small fish and seafood meze
- Tsipouro or local wine
- Traditional spoon sweets or simple desserts
In summer, outdoor terraces become especially popular. During winter, small tavernas with warm interiors provide a more intimate neighbourhood experience.
Ask about the dishes prepared that day. Traditional restaurants may offer different cooked dishes according to the season and available ingredients.
View Our What to Eat in Thessaloniki Guide
Best Cafés and Sunset Drinks
Ano Poli has fewer destination cocktail bars than central Thessaloniki, but that is part of its appeal.
Small cafés near the walls, Trigonion Tower and residential squares offer coffee, beer, wine and simple drinks in a quieter setting.
For sunset, choose a venue close to the eastern walls or buy a drink beforehand and spend time at the public viewpoint. Do not assume every viewpoint allows food, alcohol or extended seating.
Ano Poli becomes cooler and breezier than the waterfront after sunset. Bring a light layer during spring and autumn.
How to Get to Ano Poli Thessaloniki
Ano Poli is directly north of Thessaloniki’s historic centre, but the steep elevation makes the journey feel longer than it appears on a map.
You have four practical options:
By Taxi
A taxi is the simplest choice. Ask to be dropped near Trigonion Tower, Heptapyrgion or Vlatadon Monastery, then walk downhill.
By Public Bus
Several city services reach the wider Upper Town area. Routes can change, so use OASTH’s live journey-planning tools rather than relying on an old article.
OASTH also operates Cultural Route No. 50. It starts at the White Tower and stops near Ano Poli, Trigonion Tower, Vlatadon Monastery, Pasha’s Gardens and the eastern walls.
On Foot
Walking uphill is possible but strenuous. From Agios Dimitrios, expect steep streets and steps.
By Organised Walking Tour
A guided tour can be valuable when you want historical context and help navigating the irregular lanes.
The Best Way to Explore Ano Poli
The easiest strategy is:
- Travel uphill by taxi or bus.
- Begin near Trigonion Tower or Heptapyrgion.
- Walk along the walls.
- Visit Vlatadon Monastery.
- Descend towards Hosios David.
- Continue through Tsinari.
- Finish near the Byzantine Bath or Agios Dimitrios.
This direction avoids the most tiring climb and naturally connects the major attractions.
The route still includes steep slopes, steps and uneven surfaces. Build in time for coffee, lunch and unplanned detours.
A Half-Day Ano Poli Walking Route
For a balanced half-day visit, follow this route:
Stop 1: Trigonion Tower
Allow time for the city view and photographs.
Stop 2: Heptapyrgion
Walk around the exterior or enter when access is available.
Stop 3: Vlatadon Monastery
Visit the church and enjoy the view from the grounds.
Stop 4: Hosios David
Descend through residential streets to this small Byzantine church.
Stop 5: Tsinari
Pause for lunch, coffee or a drink.
Stop 6: Byzantine Bath
Continue downhill towards Olympiados Street.
From there, walk to Agios Dimitrios or continue into the historic centre.
Allow approximately four hours without a long meal, or five to six hours when visiting interiors and eating in Tsinari.
Ano Poli in Two Hours
When time is limited, concentrate on the upper section.
Take a taxi to Trigonion Tower, walk to Heptapyrgion and continue to Vlatadon Monastery.
After enjoying the view, descend a short distance through the traditional streets before taking a taxi or bus back to the centre.
Do not try to include every church. Ano Poli’s atmosphere is best experienced without constantly checking the time.
Best Time to Visit Ano Poli
Ano Poli can be visited throughout the year.
Spring
Spring offers mild temperatures, green gardens and good conditions for walking.
Summer
Visit early in the morning or in the late afternoon. The climb and exposed walls can be uncomfortable during midday heat.
Autumn
Autumn is one of the best periods for walking, with softer light and cooler temperatures.
Winter
The neighbourhood is quieter and atmospheric, but rain can make stone surfaces slippery.
Sunset is the most dramatic time for the walls and viewpoints. For churches and monuments, arrive earlier because many interiors close before evening.
Is Ano Poli Safe?
Ano Poli is generally a residential neighbourhood visited regularly by both locals and travellers.
Use normal city precautions. Keep valuables secure, particularly at crowded sunset viewpoints, and avoid poorly lit shortcuts late at night.
The main practical risks are related to terrain rather than crime. Streets can be steep, pavements narrow and stone surfaces slippery after rain.
After dinner, a taxi is often preferable to walking downhill through unfamiliar streets in the dark.
Is Ano Poli Suitable for Children?
Families can enjoy Ano Poli, particularly the walls, viewpoints and open spaces.
However, pushchairs can be difficult on steep lanes, uneven pavements and steps. A baby carrier may be more practical in some sections.
Children may enjoy the fortress and panoramic views more than a long sequence of church interiors.
Keep younger children close beside the walls and elevated viewpoints, as not every area has extensive protective barriers.
Is Ano Poli Accessible?
Ano Poli is challenging for visitors with limited mobility.
The neighbourhood includes steep gradients, cobbled surfaces, steps, narrow pavements and historic buildings with restricted access.
A taxi can provide access to the upper viewpoints and main roads, but travelling between individual monuments may remain difficult.
OASTH provides public information about accessible transport services, but travellers should confirm the suitability of specific routes and stops before visiting.
A shorter visit focused on Trigonion Tower’s surrounding viewpoint and Vlatadon Monastery may be more manageable than a full walking route.
Should You Stay in Ano Poli?
Ano Poli can be an excellent place to stay for travellers who value atmosphere, views and quiet evenings.
Advantages include:
- Historic surroundings
- Traditional neighbourhood character
- Views over the city
- Small tavernas and local cafés
- Less traffic than the central commercial streets
Disadvantages include:
- Steep walking routes
- Distance from the waterfront
- Fewer late-night transport options
- Limited parking
- Difficult access with heavy luggage
First-time visitors spending only one or two nights may find the historic centre more convenient. Ano Poli is especially appealing for longer stays, couples and returning visitors.
Practical Tips for Visiting Ano Poli
Wear shoes with a secure grip. Smooth stone and steep slopes can become slippery.
Carry water, particularly during summer. Shops and cafés are available, but not on every quiet lane.
Check church and monument hours before visiting. Religious sites may close during the afternoon or restrict entry during services.
Use a downloaded map. Small lanes can be confusing, and mobile reception is not equally reliable inside every stone building.
Avoid driving through Ano Poli unless necessary. Streets are narrow, parking is limited and navigation can be stressful.
Finally, leave room for wandering. The neighbourhood’s most memorable corners often lie between the official attractions.
<!-- THE GREEK EDITION — ANO POLI FAQ -->
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<div class="greek-edition-faq-header">
<span class="greek-edition-faq-kicker">Frequently Asked Questions</span>
<h2 id="ano-poli-faq-title">
Ano Poli Thessaloniki FAQ
</h2>
<p>
Quick answers about visiting Thessaloniki’s historic Upper Town,
including transport, walking routes, viewpoints and places to eat.
</p>
</div>
<div class="greek-edition-faq-list">
<details class="greek-edition-faq-item">
<summary>
<span>Is Ano Poli worth visiting?</span>
<span class="greek-edition-faq-icon" aria-hidden="true"></span>
</summary>
<div class="greek-edition-faq-answer">
<p>
Yes. Ano Poli is one of Thessaloniki’s most atmospheric
neighbourhoods, with traditional houses, Byzantine monuments,
historic walls, quiet streets and panoramic views over the city.
</p>
</div>
</details>
<details class="greek-edition-faq-item">
<summary>
<span>How long do you need in Ano Poli?</span>
<span class="greek-edition-faq-icon" aria-hidden="true"></span>
</summary>
<div class="greek-edition-faq-answer">
<p>
Allow at least three to four hours for the main sights. A half day is
better if you want to visit churches, explore the smaller streets and
stop for lunch or coffee.
</p>
</div>
</details>
<details class="greek-edition-faq-item">
<summary>
<span>Can you walk to Ano Poli from the city centre?</span>
<span class="greek-edition-faq-icon" aria-hidden="true"></span>
</summary>
<div class="greek-edition-faq-answer">
<p>
Yes, but the route is steep and can be tiring. The most comfortable
option is to take a taxi or bus uphill and then walk back down through
the neighbourhood towards the historic centre.
</p>
</div>
</details>
<details class="greek-edition-faq-item">
<summary>
<span>What is the best thing to see in Ano Poli?</span>
<span class="greek-edition-faq-icon" aria-hidden="true"></span>
</summary>
<div class="greek-edition-faq-answer">
<p>
The viewpoint beside Trigonion Tower is one of the strongest
first-time experiences. Heptapyrgion, Vlatadon Monastery, Hosios David
and the Byzantine walls are also essential stops.
</p>
</div>
</details>
<details class="greek-edition-faq-item">
<summary>
<span>Where should you eat in Ano Poli?</span>
<span class="greek-edition-faq-icon" aria-hidden="true"></span>
</summary>
<div class="greek-edition-faq-answer">
<p>
Tsinari is one of the most atmospheric places for traditional
tavernas and neighbourhood dining. You can also find restaurants and
cafés near the walls, Eptapyrgio and the Kastra area.
</p>
</div>
</details>
<details class="greek-edition-faq-item">
<summary>
<span>Is Ano Poli the same as Thessaloniki Old Town?</span>
<span class="greek-edition-faq-icon" aria-hidden="true"></span>
</summary>
<div class="greek-edition-faq-answer">
<p>
Ano Poli is commonly described in English as Thessaloniki’s Old Town
or Upper Town. It refers to the historic hillside district north of
the modern city centre.
</p>
</div>
</details>
<details class="greek-edition-faq-item">
<summary>
<span>What does Ano Poli mean?</span>
<span class="greek-edition-faq-icon" aria-hidden="true"></span>
</summary>
<div class="greek-edition-faq-answer">
<p>
Ano Poli means “Upper Town” in Greek, referring to the neighbourhood’s
elevated position above central Thessaloniki.
</p>
</div>
</details>
<details class="greek-edition-faq-item">
<summary>
<span>What is the best way to explore Ano Poli?</span>
<span class="greek-edition-faq-icon" aria-hidden="true"></span>
</summary>
<div class="greek-edition-faq-answer">
<p>
Begin near Trigonion Tower or Heptapyrgion, continue to Vlatadon
Monastery and then walk downhill through Hosios David, Tsinari and
the Byzantine Bath towards the city centre.
</p>
</div>
</details>
<details class="greek-edition-faq-item">
<summary>
<span>Is Ano Poli suitable for children?</span>
<span class="greek-edition-faq-icon" aria-hidden="true"></span>
</summary>
<div class="greek-edition-faq-answer">
<p>
Yes, although the steep streets, uneven pavements and steps can make
pushchairs difficult. Older children may especially enjoy the walls,
fortress and panoramic viewpoints.
</p>
</div>
</details>
<details class="greek-edition-faq-item">
<summary>
<span>Is Ano Poli accessible for limited mobility?</span>
<span class="greek-edition-faq-icon" aria-hidden="true"></span>
</summary>
<div class="greek-edition-faq-answer">
<p>
Accessibility is limited because of steep gradients, cobbled streets,
steps and historic buildings. A shorter taxi-based visit to the upper
viewpoints and Vlatadon Monastery may be more manageable.
</p>
</div>
</details>
</div>
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Final Thoughts on Visiting Ano Poli
Ano Poli reveals a side of Thessaloniki that cannot be experienced along the waterfront alone.
Here, the city becomes quieter and more intimate. Byzantine walls overlook the modern skyline, churches are hidden among residential lanes and traditional houses follow the steep shape of the hill.
Begin at Trigonion Tower, explore Heptapyrgion and visit Vlatadon Monastery before walking downhill through the historic streets. Stop in Tsinari for a traditional meal and continue towards Hosios David and the Byzantine Bath.
The main attractions are important, but Ano Poli’s real character lies between them—in its courtyards, tiled roofs, neighbourhood squares and unexpected views towards the sea.
For history, architecture and atmosphere, Ano Poli Thessaloniki is one of the city’s essential neighbourhoods.

